Meanswear Autumn / Winter 2011/2012
"Men at work" in their marked out spaces, electric graphics and colors, a beatnik type video and a Cut Up make up, Bernhard Willhelm's "Shoulder Molder" is not your ordinary collection.
Henrik Vibskov's signature "The Eat" gravitates well above a meal in honor of the soviets and CCP's plans (Already well illustrated in the artist Henki Bilal's universe). The designer jokingly dresses his characters with peruvian hats, striped sweaters and transforms the traditional waiter outfit in an orange get up.
Arnys introduces the seductor's wardrobe from Bogart to James Bond on a Alvin & the 1015's performance, a collection based around elegance, structured cuts and refined colors a la Dandy circa 1900 to 1940.
The eyes hidden behind large hats, a nonchalant good guy step on a percussion rythme, Songzio's heros march in baggies, white shirts, v cuts and oriental style accentuated waiste.
Lucas Ossendrijver for Lanvin, under Alber Elbaz supervision mixes high waiste, colorful crossed jackets, traditional collars and bow tie.
Bryon Gising type hats a la " An English Man in New York"
Juun.J rediscover the 20th century urban man with an "Overlay" collection, a Francois 1er silhouette with the great renaissance hat, a structured trench overimposed with cape-jackets with shoulder styles and Elizabethan collar.
Smashing colors and fantasy african pop accents for Walter Van Beirendonck's "Hand on Heart" collection. His fashion is more a lifestyle than a garnment style.
Romain Kremer for Mugler brings out warrior silhouettes on the stage, padded jackets, mirrored armors, protective apron and shin protector.
A man ready to brave the winter's rigor!
Qasimi Men wears belts, accentuate the "hardcore knit" and the 80's tunique comeback.
Alexis Mabille's chaotic students adopt the campus style. Slim jeans and jackets tartan, superimposition of designer tees and long neoprene zipped cape.
Atelier Gustavo Lins offers a subtil architectural and envelopping work, urban silhouettes, tall and accentuated with large belts.
Boris Bidjan Saberi's nomads face the desert and the austerity of a forbidden planet with black leather and hats.
Julius imagines a refined punk allure [ halo; ] a rock wardrobe where stiches and leather go hand in hand.
The designers answer the questions :
1• How do you describe your collection?
2• What fascinates you?
1• Well that collection has been a war child collection so its a mix of different kind of universe it involves boy soldier mix with underground uniforms.
2• My sister and I are obsessed with everything...music it's amazing to recollect everything...
1• My collection is somewhat classical but still trying to push menswear not in avangarde way but in a way where normal men would actually incorporate into their lifestyle. you see some work with inspiration from the civil war, so we worked with some of the silhouettes and shapes. That time we worked with portraits, how they stood, the honor in the portrait. So thats the collection for me. We always try to be basic without being boring, we always try to do something new without being crazy so this time I think we did a good job.
2• I fancy working with my team, I fancy my girlfriend, I fancy my job which is doing clothing, I fancy being able to travel, I fancy life basically.
1• classic and I think natural color palette which I really like, eye for detail, and masculin and feminin as well, some sort of dandism.
2• Natural beauty in a way, how can I say that..really sometimes can be extremly beautiful. I collect paper clips, because I really like the efficiency of the paper clip as well. I think the clean look of old things that are out of their glory.
Show Bernhard Willhelm
Menswear Autumn / Winter 2011/12 Paris
Shows report Marlon Monroe
Expres interview Laitinen